Preparing for Midges on Scottish Island Walks

Know What You're Up Against

The Scottish biting midge is a tiny, dark, almost invisible insect with a taste for warm-blooded walkers and a talent for ruining an otherwise perfect evening on Mull, Skye, Harris or Arran. It is not a mosquito, it does not buzz, and it does not carry disease — but what it lacks in menace it makes up for in sheer numbers. A single still, damp evening beside a lochan or a strip of birch woodland can produce clouds of them, and the bites itch for days afterwards.

The good news is that midges are predictable. They hate wind, they hate bright sun, and they are hopeless in dry conditions. Understand those three things and you can plan a Scottish island walking trip that keeps the irritation to a manageable level rather than letting it dominate your holiday.

When and Where They Bite Hardest

Midge season on the islands generally runs from late May through to September, with the peak in July and August. The worst conditions are mild, humid, overcast days with little or no breeze — the sort of grey, muggy afternoon that feels heavy before rain. Dawn and dusk are prime feeding times, and the two hours before sunset are often the fiercest of all.

Certain places concentrate them:

• Sheltered woodland — birch, pine and mixed native scrub block the wind and hold moisture.
• Loch edges and boggy ground — standing water and damp peat are ideal breeding habitat.
• Bracken and long grass — particularly where it meets a path or a campsite.
• Lee slopes and glens — anywhere the prevailing wind cannot reach.

By contrast, exposed headlands, beaches, sea cliffs and high ridges are usually much clearer. A steady onshore breeze of even a few miles per hour is enough to keep them grounded. This is why coastal walking on the Outer Hebrides, Orkney and Shetland is often far more comfortable than inland routes on Skye or Mull, even in high season.

What to Pack Before You Leave the Ferry

Preparation is everything, and midge kit is light. Pack it even if the forecast looks breezy — conditions change quickly when the wind drops at dusk.

• Head net. Buy a proper fine-mesh one that fits over a hat, and carry it in your pocket or hip belt, not buried at the bottom of your pack. Midges will find the gap between a cheap net and your neck.
• Repellent. Choose one containing either DEET (around 20–50 per cent) or picaridin. Apply to exposed skin and to cuffs, collars and ankles. Reapply every few hours, and more often if you are sweating.
• Long sleeves and trousers. Loose, light-coloured fabric is best. Midges are drawn to dark clothing and can bite through tight, thin material.
• Antihistamine cream or tablets. Useful for the itch, and for anyone who reacts badly.
• A small towel. Midges landing on damp skin are far more likely to bite. Wiping your face and neck dry genuinely helps.

Clothing That Actually Helps

Think of your clothing as a barrier rather than a fashion choice. Tuck trousers into socks or gaiters, and tuck your shirt into your waistband. Cuffs should be snug. A light hooded top is better than a bare neck, and a wide-brimmed hat keeps them off your hairline and ears.

Avoid scented products — perfumed deodorant, hairspray and strongly fragranced sunscreen all seem to attract them. If you use sunscreen, apply repellent on top once it has dried. Windproof layers do double duty: they block the breeze that keeps midges away, so a jacket worn on a still evening can trap them against you. Keep it loose and keep moving.

Tactics for Evening Walks and Campsites

Time your walking to suit the insects rather than fighting them. Mid-morning to late afternoon, especially on a sunny or breezy day, is usually comfortable. Save the low-level woodland and lochside routes for windy days, and head for ridges, beaches and cliff paths when it is still.

If you are camping, pitch on open, well-drained ground away from trees, bog and standing water. Keep the tent zipped at all times — even a brief opening lets in a dozen. Cook and eat inside the porch or in a bothy or café rather than sitting outside at dusk. A small gas or citronella burner placed upwind can take the edge off a campsite, though it will not clear a full cloud.

Portable midge coils and smoke-based repellents work best in a confined space such as a porch. Never use them inside a sealed tent.

If You Do Get Bitten

Bites usually appear within a few hours and itch most on the second day. Resist scratching — broken skin can become infected, and island pharmacies are not always close by. A cool compress, an antihistamine cream and a dose of antihistamine tablets will settle most reactions. If a bite becomes hot, swollen and spreading, seek medical advice.

The most important thing is not to let midges put you off. With a head net, a decent repellent and a bit of weather-reading, they become a minor nuisance rather than a reason to stay indoors. Pick your route, pick your hour, and the Scottish islands will still give you some of the finest coastal walking in Britain.